Wednesday, January 28, 2009

I bless the rains down in Africa

I've given up on uploading any more pictures today...the connection was downed earlier (along with the power for a few hours) as a result of a more than impressive thunderstorm. We have had light rain on and off over the last 24 hours, and we thought it would probably stay that way, but we were wrong! More on that later...

Yesterday afternoon's game drive was very enjoyable. Within about 15 minutes of leaving camp, we saw Zebra, Impala, Giraffe, Wildebeest and a large herd of Elephants. There were about half a dozen or so adult females and four baby elephants (by baby, they refer to anything under about 5 years of age). For those of you reading who are pub quiz regulars, you'll know that the elephant has the longest gestation period of (if I recall) 18 months. Giraffes apparently have the second longest at about 16 months. Feel free to google it and check - I haven't due to the bandwidth issues here.

After that, we drove about an hour away around one of the small mountains in the Madikwe park in search of the ever-elusive leopards and rhino. Unfortunately we didn't get to see any, but we stopped for drinks on the side of the mountain and had a wonderful view over the plains of the park and beyond its borders.

Dinner last night wasn't such an elaborate affair as the barbecue under the stars, but even the "normal" dinners are something special. There are beautiful hand-carved wooden tables that you sit at along the deck of the main lodge. There are no windows or exterior walls, just wooden floors and the thatched roof. At night, presumably in order to try and reduce the number of moths and other flying insects, the dining area is lit by paraffin lanterns. In the dim flickering glow we had a great pumpkin and apple soup followed by a melt-in-the-mouth steak with garlic mashed potatoes and some fresh mange-tout. Dessert was one of the best creme caramels I've ever had.

One thing you notice almost immediately on arriving here in South Africa is the vast array of birds that are around. Even in built-up Johannesburg there were birds singing. Something that in recent years is noticeably absent in London. After the mysterious demise of the sparrows and blue tits, you don't often hear birdsong. Out in the wild here there is never silence. There are always a handful of birds calling to each other - they fly and run around inside the lodge chasing each other and build their nests in the trees around. There are odd specimens galore. From the hornbill, with a yellow hook of a bill, to some other birds which are normal looking except for a tail feather that is about a foot long which dwarfs the rest of their body. Then there are the guineafowl. Very similar in look to the ones you get in England, and very funny when you are watching them scuttle along the road running away from the jeep.

This morning started off overcast, although at 5 a.m. when it's still dark it's quite hard to tell. But by the time we set off around 5:45 it was lighter and you could see the clouds. We drove for about an hour and it started to rain lightly, but we decided to stay out and we were all given rain ponchos to wear. The rain did get heavier and heavier and about 7:15 we decided to call it off and go back to the lodge. We got changed out of our wet clothes and ran back to the main lodge from our rooms with an umbrella for cover to have breakfast.

In the end we were the only people who had braved the rain to go for breakfast and so we sat on the deck and watched the thunderstorm unfold over the plains. I've videod a bit, so when I'm back I will try and upload some of it. I've been in some impressive storms in my time...not least some in the US and Canada which tend to put storms in England to shame. This storm, however, made all of them look silly. Because the park and the surrounding land is relatively flat, the sound just rolls over it, and with the lodge being on a little hill, I think we must get the full benefit of the thunder. The sky was a dark grey and the rain was latching down (full credit to the thatched roof for keeping us dry) and every 20 seconds or so there would be a flash of light followed by incredibly deep, loud rolling thunder. The storm did get closer and there were about 10 minutes when you could see the jagged streaks of lightning zip down from the storm clouds and strike the earth.

After breakfast I ended up curling up on one of the sofas in the main lodge and napping until about noon. We've just had a nice lunch and I thought I'd update the blog. The weather seems to have turned for the moment and it's getting hotter and sunnier. It may turn out to be a nice day after all for our afternoon game drive. I'm still holding out to see a Leopard - the only one of the "Big Five" that I have not seen in my two visits. A few rhino would be nice to see as well, but they are surprisingly notoriously shy creatures.

EDIT: I have actually uploaded some more pictures - we came in early this afternoon after another thunderstorm. Link here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=100306&l=a1372&id=560070984


Ken

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Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Into Africa

It's been rather a long time since I updated my blog, but I figured that I might as well do so...I may have to refer you to a facebook album for the photos as I think the connection here is less than optimal...Facebook will do a nice small upload, whereas Blogspot tends to take forever.

We had an overnight flight from London down to Johannesburg. I have a bad habit of staying up and watching films on flights, and this time was no different. It did however afford me some great sights out the window of the plane.

At some point during the night (and I assume we must have been over Northern Africa), I looked out the window and saw twenty or so flickering fires down below. It was too dark to make anything out, but there was something slightly surreal about looking out of the aeroplane and seeing these campfires below on such a clear night.

Later in the flight I saw a lightning storm in the sky a distance away. If you've ever seen a lightning storm from the sky, you'll know how incredible they look. And then finally (after a little nap) we saw the sun rising as we were approaching our destination.

We transferred in Jo'burg and had to wait for a couple of hours to get our flight over to Madikwe - the game park where we are staying which is on the border with Botswana. It was a small 10-seater plane and we landed on a dirt airstrip in the game park, to be met by the safari jeep and transferred to the lodge.

The lodge where we're staying is beautifully built using traditional methods (think thatched roofs etc.) and we had a very nice lunch. One quick nap later after lunch and we went out on the afternoon game drive at about 4:30. We headed out towards the other side of the park and soon came upon a lot of vehicles all waiting to view the wild dogs that Madikwe is home to and famous for. From what I am led to believe, there are only estimated to be 2,000 wild dogs remaining in Africa. There is a rule that there cannot be more than three vehicles at a sighting, so we had to wait, but it was well worth it. There was a pack of 18 dogs that we followed most of the way back to the lodge. They were completely at ease with the vehicle and were not in the least bothered by us taking photos and driving alongside them.

Dinner last night was served in the Boma - a walled off enclosure where there were several barbecue areas. Suffice to say that they're feeding us more than adequately. The stars were out and Venus was shining particularly strongly. Being out in the wilderness means you can see all the stars without the light pollution you normally have in cities. Last night was clear enough to be able to make out the satellites making their steady progress across the canopy of stars, and eating out under them was a rare treat.

Today is our first full day, and it started early. 5 am wake up call to meet at 5:30 for tea/coffee/biscuits, and then set off on the morning game drive by 5:45. This morning we were lucky enough to see several lionesses, a male lion, and four lion cubs. They too were completely uninterested in our vehicle. One actually walked past the rear of the jeep where I was sitting and straight past us. Had I been stupid, I could have reached out and stroked it. I do have some nice videos of the lioness, but they're too big for this connection to handle, so they will have to wait for a few days until we're in Cape Town, or until I get back to London.

We saw a fairly large herd of elephants while we were out this morning, although the bull elephant must have been elsewhere as it was just smaller females and babies. Zebras, Wildebeest, Impala were all par for the course and were all over the place. We saw a few giraffes as well, and it struck me how much they seem to be a remnant of a past age. They're so unlike any other animal alive today.

Check my facebook profile for pictures as I know I won't be able to upload any here. Link below (and you don't need to be a member to view it):

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=100072&l=2d0a0&id=560070984

Ken

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